slow sand filter field tests

It is now October 2, 2014. Filter 1, and filter 4 have output water with no (0) coliform and no (0) e coli bacteria present. The cistern water that flows through filter 2, and filter 3, has 4 cfu’s of coliform per 100ml and 20 cfu’s of e coli per 100 ml.  See the images below:

These images are of filter 1, filter 4, and the cistern output water tests.

These images are of filter 1, filter 4, and the cistern output water tests.

Tests on filter 2, filter 3 and filter 5 will be done in the next couple of weeks.

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Five gallon slow sand filter

On September 27 2014,  after 6 months of continuous operation since this winter’s extended below freezing weather, a field test was done on the 5 gallon filters 10a and 10b. The tests indicate that filter 10a did not work satisfactorily. In fact, the output of the five gallon filter 10a was hundreds of times worse than its input water, which came from the source which is water collected from the first flush diverter/settling barrel array. Filter 10b, which filters the output water from filter 10a, did show some additional removal of ecoli and coliform bacteria as compared to the output of filter 10a which appeared to actually add bacteria. But both filters’ output was far worse than the input from the source water. These results indicate that .25 mm sand is just too coarse to work in a shallow filter such as these 5 gallon subjects, and that .15 mm effective size sand just barely works, and may not work at all. These results also indicate that having more than one shallow filter is absolutely necessary for even marginal results, and that the water from the first must be fed into the second. This testing is after 6 months of operation. I will post images of the test results sometime today or tomorrow. The 55 gallon filter (filter 1) that has been running here for 8 years has output that is tens of thousands of times better than either one of these 5 gallon filters.  It uses the same source water as the 5 gallon filters.

It is important to note that these tests are only valid for this water here at this location. Water in a different area, such as a climate where the temperature is always way above freezing, will have different characteristics, and may very well be filterable by a 5 gallon filter. 

5_gallon_filter_field_test

These are the test results for filter 10a and 10b. The “source” water is from the diverter output (water taken from the house roof)

Water comes from the “source” goes into filter 10a, flows out (supposedly filtered) and then goes into filter 10b. The water out from 10b, the source water, and the water out from 10a are what was tested. The water out from 10b, is better than its input, so that filter is working somewhat.  Filter 10a is not working, it is adding huge amounts of bacteria to the water. The red dots are coliform, and the blue dot in the filter 10a dish is e coli.

The water coming from this filter, filter 10a, is highly toxic and not safe. The filter has been removed from any more testing and is no longer active. The sand has been discarded and the bucket and the sand have been sterilized. The bucket will be reused in a different setup.

What might this test result indicate?

1. A 5 gallon filter using sand with an effective size of larger that .15 mm won’t adequately filter water at this location.

2. Water run through two 5 gallon filters (first one, then out of that and then into the next one ) is filtered better than just going through 1 filter.

3. Filter 10a obviously adds bacteria to the water. It is totally not working and is supplying toxic water output. That is the .25 mm effective size sand. It does not work.

4. Filter 10b filters that bad water from 10a and makes it better, but not good enough.

5.  Contaminated water is slipping through the area between the sand and the inside of the bucket where the surface of the bucket was not adequately roughed up with sandpaper.

6.  The sand in the bucket is not deep enough to catch all of the bacteria possibly because bacteria predation typically occurs deeper than just a few centimeters down from the top surface of the sand. As this happens over a long time period, in this case 6 months, the escaped bacteria simply build up in the lower regions of the sand. Know that there is only about 10 inches of sand in one  of these filters.

7.  Filter 10a uses an overflow pipe to allow the excess water added to the top bucket to flow into a reservoir bucket. That water is, occasionally, then poured back into the filter 10a  input. It could be that bacteria is multiplying in that reservoir, and then overwhelming the 5 gallon filter.

9.  The bucket used to transfer water to filter 10b could be inadvertently adding bacteria to the water. It could be that filter 10b is actually working quite well.

Filter 10b uses .15 mm effective size sand. The flow rate is very, very, very slow. It may be that another filter with .15 mm effective size sand would adequately filter the water. In other words 3 filters in series may work. But, the sand size must be no larger than .15 mm effective size. That will mean an extremely slow flow rate.

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Rain water harvesting and slow sand filter update

All the filters are still functional with the exception of one. The filter connected to the largest pond has been inactivated by damage due to the wildlife present here.  We are reasonably sure the damage was caused by raccoons. The output pipes were disrupted and as a result all the water was pumped out into the ground. Re-activation will have to wait until there is enough rain to refill pond. In the mean time the filter remains inactive. This will be an interesting test of the pond filter to determine what happens if the filter stays inactive for over 2 weeks.  This has been a warm dry summer with several periods of heavy rainfall, and extended periods of warm dry, sunny weather.

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How safe is your water?

To harvest rain water or use water from the public water supply – what to do? According to a recent article in the New York Times, which mentions the trouble with the Silver Lake reservoir near Los Angeles California, public water is becoming more and more polluted as time goes on. We covered the problem with the Silver Lake reservoir already – bromates were found in the water. These bromates were due to other pollutants mixing and then being chemically altered by sunlight.

Pollutants are all over the place now. Reservoirs that fill using river water, or surface runoff can have up to 60, 000 different chemicals present in the water, yet only 91 are tested for by law. The above mentioned article states (from a citation using EPA records) that there are more than 60,000 chemicals used in the U.S.

We have already shown, on this blog, and our three other websites,  that way less contamination exists in rain water than in surface water, or runoff that comes in contact with areas that have been contaminated by urban development, industry, or agricultural activities. The first few hundred gallons of water that runs off of your roof washes away most of the pollution that has settled from the air. All that is left is the petroleum residue from composition roofing. In the case of non-toxic roofing, such as galvalume, little pollution remains after the initial washing from the first few minutes of a moderate rain shower.

It is important to know that some contaminants need only be present in very small amounts to be hightly toxic over long periods of time (years). Trihalomethanes, Haloacetic Acid, Bromate, and Chlorite and microcystins are some examples.

 

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Microcystin removal by slow sand water filtration

Will a slow sand filter take out microcystin toxins more effectively than conventional water filtration (rapid sand filtration) ? It appears as though the answer is yes:

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12203961  (information is in the abstract; access to the entire document requires a log in.)

http://www.who.int/water_sanitation_health/dwq/chemicals/microcystin_sections.pdf   (its a 3 page document; read the entire document)

http://www.ibg.uu.se/digitalAssets/164/164676_3bojcevska-hristina-jergil-erik.pdf   (page 19 and read the entire document)

Removal of Algae and Cyanobacterial Toxins during Slow Sand and Bank Filtration  (page 53 “schmutzdecke”)

Biodegradation of the cyanobacterial toxin microcystin LR in natural water and biologically active slow sand filters     (page 1300)

www.terrapub.co.jp/onlineproceedings/ec/02/pdf/ERA33.pdf   (page 280)

Biological treatment options for cyanobacteria metabolite removal A review  (page 1543)

Slow sand filtration is not used in most water treatment facilities in the U.S. , even though it is more efficient, more sustainable, and less expensive than rapid sand filtration. Slow sand water filtration has been around for hundreds of years and has been shown to work. The city of Salem, Oregon is one of the few cities in the U.S. that uses slow sand filtration. 

 

 

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What if the public water system becomes unusable?

What would you do if you found out that the public water system had been contaminated by powerful toxins that could not be removed by boiling? Setting up a rain barrel or two might be a good idea.

Incidentally, according to the US National Library of Medicine (National Institutes of Health)  microcystins can be removed by slow sand filtration.

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DIY 5 gallon slow sand filter update

Back in September of last year, we started 3 small 5 gallon slow sand filters. They are still running, and marginally cleaning the water that runs through them. So far, the best water quality is from filter 10b, followed by 10a, and then 10c. They do work, but only just barely. If this were all you had to clean the water you use, they would absolutely be better than nothing, however they are very sensitive to any physical movement, and the flow rate must be extremely slow for these small filters to do any good. If the input water is turbid, they will plug up quickly, as it is necessary to use very fine sand in these small filters. Perhaps a good way to run them is to use 2 in series. The first one should have coarse sand like .65 mm effective size, and the second one much finer sand like .15 mm effective size.

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Will a DIY slow sand filter produce potable water?

We continue to get questions about the filters we describe producing “potable” water. Again, I’ll try to address this issue. These filters are not 100 percent foolproof and they are not magical. They require maintenance and specific actions to keep them able to purify water. Check the link to “potable”. There you will find a definition of “potable”.  Wikipedia also has a definition of “potable”: “Drinking water or potable water is water safe enough to be consumed by humans or used with low risk of immediate or long term harm.”

Know that the output of any of the slow sand filters we describe is totally dependent on operating conditions and proper maintenance. They are capable of significantly improving the quality of input water, however; there are no absolute 100 percent guarantees that any of these filters we describe will produce perfect water 100 percent of the time.

To determine if any of the small slow sand filters we describe might provide improved water quality, the filter would need to be set up and a pilot study done. This means the filter would need to be set up at the intended location where it will be running when in service, using input water from the same source all the time; and then be tested while operating in the worst of conditions and the best of conditions. This testing should be done by a qualified knowledgeable person. Also the input water would need to be tested to determine the extent of contamination. Then the owner / operator would need to be trained on how to properly use and maintain the filter. Even with all this, output may vary considerably and it is possible for any of the filters we describe to produce water that is not completely purified. Also contamination can come from anywhere; And anything can be in water – anything. Contamination can vary tremendously. A UV filter may be needed in some cases. If the condition of the input water changes and becomes more contaminated, or contaminated by different substances; then the output of the filter may also change, possibly becoming more contaminated.

Read all of the information we provide, and by all means, compare it with other studies;  and then make your own decision about how to use the filter you put together.

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Five gallon DIY slow sand filter update

The five gallon slow sand filter experiment, mentioned in September of last year (2013) is still in progress. Due to some unforeseen issues, the EPA tests cannot be done as of yet. We will attempt to start some field tests on the three filters (filter 10a, 10b, and 10c) as time permits.  These filters are still in the process of recovering from being totally frozen this winter. Until about early March, there was no water flowing through them.

A summary of what we have observed so far:
These filters will work, but there are some serious issues. 

It is necessary to keep the flow rate very, very slow; much like a dripping faucet. 

They are very easily disrupted if moved or bumped even slightly as the biofilm seal between the sand and the container may be broken easily – the sand and water in the bucket is so heavy it causes the bucket to flex if even moved slightly. As a result, the output is bad for about a week.  

They are inferior to the much larger 55 gallon filters we have running here, but most certainly better than nothing.

As an experiment, they appear to “work” to filter out some turbidity, and we have noted what appears to be some removal of biological contamination. The water that comes out of the roof water diverter and is poured into the top of these little filters is improved by running through them.

If anyone reading this has conflicting information, please post it here in the comments section below.

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Can I save money on my water bill by using a rain barrel?

If the cost of the water; and the cost of the infrastructure that brings the water to “you” and takes it away when you’re done with it are considered; then, on paper, a rain barrel will pay for itself in several months or less, providing the water that it collects is used on a regular basis.

Consider this: taxes and house payments (or rent) are part of the cost of the infrastructure that brings water to people. Know that when land is “developed” for housing, the cost to put in water utilities is tremendous, and the upkeep is also tremendous. The developers pass all those costs along to homeowners (or landlords and subsequently, renters); and county, city and state taxes pay for these services. The true cost of water usage is a lot more than most people may realize. When using rain water harvesting, the more water you use, the more you save. The opposite is true of public water usage. The more you use the more you pay.

If you are on a well, your water is not “free”. You must pay for the electricity to pump the water, or you must pay for the solar panels, batteries and charge controllers that produce the electricity to run your pump, and you must pay for the pump. Additionally you must pay someone to drill, or dig the well.  A drilled well is extremely expensive now days. Back in 1975 our 125 foot deep drilled well cost close to 3000 dollars. Now that price is much higher, perhaps near 6000 dollars, or more. So, well water is not “free”.  Water from a rain barrel is much, much cheaper.

The complete, accurate, true answer to this question is not a simple yes or no. If you’re talking  about “monthly cash flow”, and using a single 55 gallon barrel; your savings will be very little, or none at all, depending on your use. Know that this assumes the cost of water, sewer, and / or “utilities” stays the same forever, which it does not; and that those infrastructural costs are not included in the “profitability” of a rain barrel. This also assumes there is no cost to anyone as a result of rain water from roof surfaces washing pollution into rivers, streams, lakes and oceans. If only the cost of the actual water is considered, then it may take 3 or 4 years to pay for the barrel, depending on how often you use it. Financially, not a “high yield investment”.  However, utility costs will go up as long as infrastructure exists. If this infrastructure stops existing, or becomes damaged, then a rain barrel will be your only source of water. The rain barrel may then become one of the most important things at your house; and its “cost” will become irrelevant because any amount of time over four days without water will be pure hell. A plastic rain barrel will last indefinitely, and you only pay for it once.

Now let’s look at an example:
Be aware that this is in an area where there is ample rainfall, and where it is possible to use the water from the barrel with only several weeks of freezing weather. This example will not hold true in areas of extreme extended periods of sub-freezing weather, or in areas of marginal rainfall. Also, contrary to popular belief, it is not against state government law to set up rain barrels in any state (except some places in Colorado). 

In the Seattle area, of Washington state, water (just the water; not the service) costs anywhere from  .667 cents per gallon  to 1.913 cents per gallon. (The lowest basic cost for water service is between 13.75 per month, to 16.70 per month regardless of use.) So 55 gallons of water will cost you anywhere from $.37, to $1.05 for the water only. This is not the “true” cost of the water; just the amount of “cash flow” you must pay for the actual commodity; which is water. Look at it as the instantaneous cost of the water. The $1.05 is summer cost, when most people are using water for gardening purposes. At the very least, a 60 dollar 55 gallon barrel would need to be filled and emptied 60 times to pay for itself, in actuality. For an average roof size of 1500 square feet, and a total of 4 downspouts with equal flow, with only 1 rain barrel on 1 of the downspouts, and;  allowing for 20 percent water loss due to evaporation, roof surface and leaks, 1 inch of rain will produce 186 gallons of water at 1 downspout. The Seattle area averages about 30 inches of rain per year. That’s 186 X 30 or 5580 gallons of water. That’s over 100 fills and drains of the barrel in a year. Paid for easily in 1 year – if it is used and if the rain falls at the right time. If it is not used, then it is not paid for. But there still is a problem with this. Rain does not always fall conveniently at the right times, so there may be times when the barrel will overflow, and that “overflow” water will not get stored to be used later. It may take 2 years, or longer to pay for the barrel. Keep in mind that this ignores all other costs of public water, this just takes into consideration the cost of the actual water. This also ignores the cost of cleaning up pollution that gets washed into lakes, streams, and oceans because of runoff that is not slowed down by rain barrels.

 

Note: (1500 X .0833 X 7.48 = 935 gallons / 4 = 233.75 gallons * .20 = 46.75  233.76 – 46.75= 187 gallons. )

 

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